I don’t do very well in the morning unless I have breakfast right away and today was no exception. It was quite early, and besides the konbini, or “convenience store” nearby, there wasn’t much open. Happily I found a little place but with only one item on the menu. While sashimi and raw egg on rice are possibly not my first choice for breakfast, I figured that high protein was needed for the long ride ahead. It was delicious.
My plan was to break up the journey into two days because the thought of riding 70 km was far too ambitious for me. The first step in the journey is taking the ferry for the short jaunt to Mukaishima, an island in Onomichi harbour.
From this straightforward beginning and joined by two cyclists on road bikes, I started out tentatively following the blue arrows and blue line on the road which marks the route for the Shimanami Kaido.
It basically goes across a bunch of islands joined by stupendous bridges, and the ascent to the bridges are, in most cases, the main inclines.
You would think that with the blue line, (it’s quite faded in parts) along with google maps, it would be fairly easy not to get lost but I did manage to miss the the turn off to the second bridge, Ikuchi. After about 15 minutes I realized something was wrong and asked two women about to head off in the same direction on their swift bikes and racing jerseys, “to Imabari?”.
“NO, NO”, they exclaimed, pointing the opposite direction, and laughing, not unkindly, and I heard them chatting as they sped off, imagined them saying, “wants to go to Imabari, and she’s headed back to Onomichi.”
There are many cyclists on the route, but everyone is so spread out it’s not crowded. A motley group, some on rented one gear beater bikes, others on road bikes or electric. All ages, even kids. People from different countries.
By 30 km I was getting a little tired, and there was a strong headwind. The bridges have wide sidewalks but are extremely high above sea level.
The last bridge of the day for me, Tatara, was a little scary. The wind was really blowing through the gap between the islands, maybe 30 knots or more. I passed a sign that mentioned in English the bridge was often called the “roaring dragon” and it was certainly roaring today; the wind passing through the suspension cables made everything very noisy and it was a relief to reach the other side. With the noise, wind gusts, the height and fatigue my nerves were shot.
Found my cycle station for the night, which turned out to be a very well equipped hotel, with dormitories and rooms, and everything you could ever need, razors, towels, toothbrushes. Everything, I might add, except breakfast. That will be at the konbini across the road.
Drumbeats push me up
On to Innoshima Bridge
Taiko rehearsal
